

I went through the system beefing up the wiring. Have the right tools handy Such as any other DO-IT-YOURSELF job, you want to be sure you have the right tools to do the job. I should mention that when I used the AGM factory aux battery I had a problem of early low voltage inverter shut down due to voltage drop in the wires to the aux battery. The wimpy MB battery wire (AWG 2) is likely limiting the current through the relay. So I regularly see much higher than 40A and so far (couple of years) have not had any problems.Īll that being said, it's not a good idea to design for the max on any component. This is current in and out of the house battery only through the relay since there are no other loads. The relay will close whenever either of the. We recently installed and began testing the Battery Doc isolator from WirthCo Engineering ( ). This is a dual sense unit, in which the Smart Battery Isolator will respond to voltage change at both terminal. Electronic Isolator System A fairly new entry to the battery isolator field is the smart isolator. This quickly drops to 60A and tapers to 0 depending on house batter state of charge. A 70-amp isolator will set you back in the neighborhood of 50 or more. My battery monitor shows -80A of load when the relay turns on after start (house battery charging engine battery) and then +80A once the alternator kicks in. The relay is most highly stressed when it closes or opens under load. I have no idea what the specs on the relay are. And Broussely warns: “Certainly discuss this with your battery manufacturer. >Float charging Li-ion cells is possible, but the voltage-temperature-lifetime-capacity trade-off is complex. Since T-105s gas float (some, less than charging) added a 2nd monitor to disable the cut off relay when 14.2 is reached, no float charging, not a lot if hands on with this loop, learning. With a time factor programmed, if battery voltage is less than 12.1 for 3 minute's, a reset is required, no more high amp loads or it will happen again with less time due to less AH/voltage available. Use voltage set point, when a load is active the battery voltage is always less than non load. I'm using a BMV 700 to prevent the battery voltage from descending thru 12.1 volts, 50% SOC, programmed the BMV to open relay/output, opens an interposing relay that disables all loads from battery's. Without such isolation, your house battery and SLI battery will seek to maintain the same charge leveland if that’s too low to start your rig, you’re left in the lurch. Do you use a battery monitor to control the cut off relay (relay under seat)? Only Li batt hand's on I have has been held in my hand, phone's etc. Battery isolators do just what it sounds like: They isolate your RV house batteries from your vehicle’s SLI (starting-lighting-ignition) battery. I did limited research on the Li batt loop, had some ?s Just went with T-105's 450 AH bank, thinking more plug and play with the MB system, put a shore charger on every so, done.
